Monday 6 June 2011

The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island Across the water from Bigbury-on-sea you will find Burgh Island – although technically it’s only an island when the sea comes in. It’s also the site of a restored 1920’s hotel and the setting for a couple of Agatha Christie’s detective. I looked into booking a couple of nights in the hotel last year and was on the verge of doing so until I realised that I could have two weeks in the Maldives (including flights) for the same price … But being in the area and spotting that the tide was out meant that we had to investigate … and if further encouragement were needed the Pilchard Inn could be seen in the distance just inviting us for a closer look! The area has a history steeped in smuggling and treasure and also used to be ripe for shoals of pilchards - fishermen used to launch their boats from the island shores. Now the pilchards and the fishermen have gone but the Inn remains, cashing in on the romanticism of being a “14th century smugglers Inn”. We wander up to get a closer view of the hotel. The gates are locked shut and warning notices inform us that the hotel area is “for guests only” … as are the benches with the views across the bay. Everything seems to shout “Not for the likes of you”, so we decide to pop into the pub since the doors have just opened. On entering we find a very small snug area with seating for 18 – but across the other side of the bar is a larger room with a roaring log fire. However on enquiry we are told that this area is for “Hotel Residents only”- more segregation! But we are early and lucky enough to be able to get a table and the pub boasts a small selection of real ales together with two ciders – Thatcher’s or Heron Valley. Yes, I’ll definitely have a Heron Valley! The small bar quickly fills up and those who arrive half an hour later are forced to sit outside, it’s sunny but there is a nasty nip in the air … the hotel guests seem to have decided to stay in their rooms; their bar area remains empty. Ah well, better make the most of having a table. No tuna baguettes here, still crab country you see. But the crab baguette is beautifully presented – even if it has been taken from a huge pile of ready made ones! - it’s wrapped in a napkin tastefully secured by a piece of string and obviously trying very hard to look rustic and 14th Century! Rather amusingly I discover that, as well as serving the baguettes prepared at the hotel and sent down to feed the peasants, the Inn also offers evening food on a Friday night – but only for hotel residents - who perhaps want to live life a little close to the edge and visit a common pub for the evening! It’s enough for me to decide that I really would rather go for the two weeks in the Maldives! Cider – 3 Tuna – (0) but crab baguette 4 Atmosphere – 1

The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island

Across the water from Bigbury-on-sea you will find Burgh Island – although technically it’s only an island when the sea comes in.  It’s also the site of a restored 1920’s hotel and the setting for a couple of Agatha Christie’s detective.  I looked into booking a couple of nights in the hotel last year and was on the verge of doing so until I realised that I could have two weeks in the Maldives (including flights) for the same price …

But being in the area and spotting that the tide was out meant that we had to investigate … and if further encouragement were needed the Pilchard Inn could be seen in the distance just inviting us for a closer look! The area has a history steeped in smuggling and treasure and also used to be ripe for shoals of pilchards - fishermen used to launch their boats from the island shores. Now the pilchards and the fishermen have gone but the Inn remains, cashing in on the romanticism of being a “14th century smugglers Inn”.

We wander up to get a closer view of the hotel. The gates are locked shut  and warning notices inform us that the hotel area is “for guests only” … as are the benches with the views across the bay.  Everything seems to shout “Not for the likes of you”, so we decide to pop into the pub since the doors have just opened. On entering we find a very small snug area with seating for 18 – but across the other side of the bar is a larger room with a roaring log fire.  However on enquiry we are told that this area is for “Hotel Residents only”- more segregation!

But we are early and lucky enough to be able to get a table and the pub boasts a small selection of real ales together with two ciders – Thatcher’s or Heron Valley.  Yes, I’ll definitely have a Heron Valley!  The small bar quickly fills up and those who arrive half an hour later are forced to sit outside, it’s sunny but there is a nasty nip in the air … the hotel guests seem to have decided to stay in their rooms; their bar area remains empty.

Ah well, better make the most of having a table. No tuna baguettes here, still crab country you see.  But the crab baguette is beautifully presented – even if it has been taken from a huge pile of ready made ones! -  it’s wrapped in a napkin tastefully secured by a piece of string and obviously trying very hard to look rustic and 14th Century!  Rather amusingly I discover that, as well as serving the baguettes prepared at the hotel and sent down to feed the peasants, the Inn also offers evening food on a Friday night – but only for hotel residents - who perhaps want to live life a little close to the edge and visit a common pub for the evening!  It’s enough for me to decide that I really would rather go for the two weeks in the Maldives!

Cider – 3
Tuna – (0) but crab baguette3
Atmosphere – 1

Tuesday 10 May 2011

The Trotters Inn, Cocklake


(Or as I prefer to call it “The Trotters Inn, just outside of Wedmore …”)

I’ve been wanting to visit this pub ever since I was told that if I liked the Crown at Churchill I would love this place and after a hard day doing housework on Saturday I deserve a treat. So I get to choose the Sunday walking route.

I pour over the Ordnance Survey map looking for inspiration ... and then I remember this pub. Except, normally the pub walk is supposed to involve a walk, some lunch and then a return trip … and I’m pretty certain that I’ve heard that the only food on offer at Trotters is a packet of pork scratchings .

Not to worry, I announce the walk “We’re going to walk to a pub, have a drink and then walk to another pub for lunch”.  “Why can’t we have lunch at the first pub?”. “You’ll see …”

And so the walk begins. Bother. I forgot the hill. I’m useless at hills. Can walk for miles on the flat, but chuck in a hill and I’m puffed.  Still, as a bonus the walk takes us along the edge of a golf course, and pretty soon my handbag is bulging with golf balls. (I hope they don’t do food at The Trotters, because now I will have no where to
put my left overs …)

As we round a bend in the road the ominous view of a pub sign without the actual board appears … hmmmm. Don’t tell me I’m too late and the place has closed down? (It reminds me of my couple of ill-fated trips to the Blue Flame at Nailsea, a pub that has been recommended to me, but which only seems to open when the landlord feels like it – the feeling of disappointment when you travel all that way to find the pub doors resolutely shut is incomparable). But all is not lost – well the sign might be – but the pub IS open!  Through the main door, I’m confronted by a further two doors – “The Lounge” or “The Smoking Room”, I opt for the latter and enter a low-ceiling room with a four foot bar and a smattering of local yokels.  One of whom bursts into a rousing chorus of “With rings on her ankles and bells on toes” when he espies me. Drat. Perhaps I should have worn my walking boots instead of my fancy sandals with the beads around the ankles!  “Don’t worry” the landlord says, “George is our village idiot … or at least he is when he’s had a few.” The landlord can’t see my feet, he doesn’t understand the joke.

I ask what cider is on offer. “Thatchers Gold or Natch” comes the reply. Hmmm. I’ll have the Gold then. The landlord unscrews the cap from a two litre plastic bottle of cider and pours the contents into what must be the dustiest glass I’ve ever seen – and that’s saying something, because I am the proud owner of many a dusty glass myself …

He’s not going to get any points for the cider that’s for sure … nor the tuna baguette. But that’s not everything is it?

I take a seat and marvel at the décor. Despite the fact that it’s very warm outside there is a real fire burning in the hearth. There’s a shove ha’penny board (I’ve never seen one of those before) and every available space on the nicotine-coloured walls is covered with an assortment of paintings, photos, farming paraphernalia, stuffed animals, cider jugs and cups and even some majolica plates. The sort of stuff that, if it were to be auctioned off, would pay to refurbish the pub in a grandiose style. I only hope that the landlord doesn’t realise it!

I sit back and listen to the locals talk, it’s all “baint, taint, tother, thik, thak” and “does ‘er?” It’s like being transported back to my youth … Oh yes. I like this pub. I like this pub an awful lot.

Cider – giggle
Tuna – chuckle
Atmosphere - 5

The Harbour Inn, Lyme Regis


It’s a sunny Thursday and I have a … day off.  I’m supposed to have had a week off, but I always find that things never go to plan. So what to do?  How about a trip to drool at the Beach Huts in Lyme Regis?  Two or three years ago I was very taken with the idea of buying one that I saw for sale at £20,000.  But I was talked out of it - it’s another one on the list of things I want but which I’m not allowed because “it’s not practical”, the list also includes chickens, a campervan, and an Aston Martin.   

A few hours later we arrive. Just in time for lunch. Woo hoo. Normally a visit to The Royal Standard for a crab sandwich and a pint of something would be in order, but today it’s a bit too cold to sit out in the unsheltered garden, so I opt for a table on the verandah of The Harbour Inn.  A glass of Thatchers Gold is brought forth, although actually I’m so cold I would have preferred a hot chocolate!  This being Lyme Regis when it comes to sandwiches the preferred fish-style filling option is “locally caught Lyme Bay crab”, so a crab baguette it is.  And it’s huge. More of a crab half-a-loaf.  I manage to eat half and the other half is placed in the rucksack (it’s too big for the handbag) for consumption later in the day. 

I wouldn’t really describe the Harbour Inn as a pub, it’s more of a beachside café which serves alcohol … many of the “pubs” in Lyme Regis fall into the same category. And the one’s which aren’t beachside still seem to be more food-based than beer. In fact, I’ve been to about nine pubs in Lyme Regis and only one would be what I would call a “proper” pub (The Nags Head, which is slightly out of the town centre). But then Lyme is a very popular destination for trippers, so it’s understandable that these establishments cater for their needs. 

A pleasant hour is spent mackerel fishing … the boat owner tells us a few facts about the town, he points out the beach huts and informs us that late last year one of those sold for £40,000 … hmmmph. Not only could I have been the proud owner of a beach hut for a few years but if I’d decided to sell I could have doubled my investment! Typical. As revenge I decide to leave the other half of the crab baguette to fester in the rucksack for a week …

Cider – 2
Tuna -  2 (crab)
Atmosphere – 1

The Star Inn, Watchet.

A cold bank holiday. The options:- stay at home and do housework or go “somewhere” (anywhere please … save me from housework!)  and so I find myself on a day trip to Watchet.  I say “day trip” but it was more of a “three hour” trip including travelling time … Watchet is an ancient harbour town, with a solid maritime and trading history. It is home to two Museums, one dedicated to boats and the other records the history of Watchet (with quite a few boats thrown in …), The West Somerset Railway also runs through the town, which is always a bonus.  It is probably thanks to these plentiful trade-links that Watchet has several pubs … well there seemed to be quite a few to choose from anyway!

The Bell Inn looked quaint, but a forboding sign on the door told me that if I hadn’t booked a table for food I could forget it … The London Inn is almost directly opposite, the menu offered me a tuna and mayo baguette, but it’s best not to make a hasty decision until you’ve checked out the competition. The Esplanade Club didn’t sound or look very much like a pub; but apparently it is.  It’s situated on the harbour, so I would imagine it’s a popular place to stop for a glass of something on a busy, sunny day – but today is cold and windy and I want to be snug indoors. The West Somerset Hotel looked interesting – but huge doors to the courtyard, high windows and peeling paintwork gave it a barren air, and although I’m sure there was a chalk sign offering real ales, there was no sign of atmosphere – I felt as if I was waiting for the tumbleweed to come by.   From a distance The Anchor looked promising; lots of bunting and St  George’s flags - it was the weekend after the Royal Wedding after all - however, on closer inspection the flags of St George were painted on and when the door was opened it looked like a dive. Hmmmm.  

It looks like I am heading back to The London Inn. Via the scenic route i.e. through a housing estate.  But wait … what’s this?  Tucked down a side street just off the main drag through the town is The Star Inn, winner of an assortment of CAMRA awards – Most Friendliest Pub, Best Pub 2010 and Pub the Judge would most like to take home (or some such thing). Inside there are a lot of tables. An awful lot of tables.  Plenty of real ales too. And Thatchers Gold.  

A huge “Specials Board” and a printed menu but there are no sandwiches available, only proper meals. Luckily I spot that they offer a tuna salad served with a warm baguette. Ah ha. A DIY tuna baguette with assorted salad bits.  I’m in my element. I snaffle all the mayonnaise sachets from the surrounding tables and get to work.  A tuna, mayo and cucumber quarter baguette, a tuna, mayo and sweetcorn quarter baguette, a tuna, mayo and red onion quarter baguette and a tuna, mayo and full salad quarter baguette (although the latter is stashed in the handbag for later). Bliss!

Cider – 2 (Real Ale buffs – hmmph)
Tuna – 3 (Plenty of variety!)
Atmosphere – 2 (To be fair it was a cold and windy Sunday, the holidaymakers were safe caravans and the locals were probably snug at home)

So many pubs … so little time, Here, there and everywhere …

It’s been a while since I’ve managed to get round to an update, seems there just aren’t enough hours in a day to drink cider, eat baguettes and write a blog … and now I’m stuck with having to remember where I’ve been and what I’ve had.
 
Ages ago I visited the twenty-ager in Bournemouth and she took me to her local down the road which had recently reopened after an extensive renovation. I remember they had Aspall’s on draught and that I had something to eat, but all I remember is that it wasn’t a tuna baguette and then, to make matters worse, I can’t even remember the name of the place … so no point giving any points for that at all!

I also spent a day at the Tuckers Maltings Beer Festival in Newton Abbot … where I was horrifed to discover that despite having two hundred and thirty something real ales for the punters they had absolutely NO cider on offer. None. Not even a sip.  Luckily the Maltings shop next door had some local bottle cider available to purchase, so I sampled the delights of Winkleigh Cider Co. Sam’s Dry and Green Valley’s Sparkling Vintage and Dragon Tears. At 8.3% the Sparkling Vintage was probably the strongest cider I’ve ever had, and I had to have a nap on the grass to recover!

As well as being home to one of the few remaining Maltings in the UK Newton Abbot also boasts a Cider House – Ye Olde Cider Bar – serving noth9ing BUT cider, I shall have my revenge on those real ale buffs on a return visit to the town one day!

Then last month I went to the New Inn at Cross, where I probably had a pint of Thatcher’s Gold (because I know they serve it there!) and I also had an evening meal, so again no baguette. The New Inn is a good pub if you want a delicious meal, sometimes they have exotic things like Ostrich on the menu and the whitebait is scrummy. I wish I could mention the sandwich and baguette selection … but I can’t.  The evening we went the local table skittles league as in action – something of a rarity in these parts!

I’ve also had trips to The Lamb in Axbridge, a couple of pubs in Bristol that I can’t even remember and been back to The Crossways at West Hunstpill where I was delighted to find they now serve Thatchers Gold “Slush Puppy” which is probably my all time favourite summer drink! (If you’ve never sampled the delights of iced cider I recommend you do asap.  I’m looking forward to a return trip to The Crossways soon!)

Wednesday 16 March 2011

The Prince of Waterloo, Winford

After a pleasant morning visiting a cemetery in central Bristol thoughts turn to lunch … there are plenty of pubs around here, but after the sublime peace and tranquilty I’ve enjoyed already today I can’t face the hustle and bustle of a busy place.  

And so perhaps today is a good day to pop into The Crown at Churchill for some real cider and a sandwich?  Alas, a traffic jam on the A38 before the airport coupled with the fact that the clock is ticking means a diversion is in order.  And so we head out towards Chew Magna, stopping off in Winford to visit the Prince of Waterloo.

For such a huge pub it also manages to pull off the quaint look – thanks to the proliferation of wood, beams, low ceilings and flagstones.  There’s a restaurant, a normal bar, a lounge bar and what is described as a “sports bar” – an area with a big television, chairs and squishy sofas – something for everyone indeed!
So what’s on offer for the discerning cider drinker? The Prince is another one of those “real ale” pubs – priding itself on a changing stock of beers – but when it comes to cider it’s Blackthorn, Thatchers Gold or Stowford Press.  Ah well. I had a half of Stowford yesterday, so I’ll go for the Gold today.
Because it’s Sunday the pub is in full swing offering two course lunches – including a choice of  beef, lamb, chicken or pork with all the trimmings for £8.95.  But I don’t want a big meal and ask about sandwiches.  The barman is a bit confused, but the manageress is sat our side of the bar enjoying her day off and she tells him to hand over the light lunches menu.  I can choose from a tuna and mayo jacket potato, a tuna, mayo and red onion salad, a tuna and cheese Panini, but the only baguettes on offer are cheese salad, BLT, ham or sausage and onion.  More negotiation ensues …

Ten minutes later my tuna and mayo baguette arrives, complete with salad garnish of lettuce, peppers (all colours), onion, tomato, cucumber and cress.  Oh, and a handful of those tortilla things I keep having to try despite the fact that I know I don’t like them. Sadly I'm not very hungry (probably something to do with the lashings of birthday cake I had last night) so half the baguette is placed neatly into the handbag for consumption later in the day.

On hand to entertain me I have the local football expert who berates the members of the village football team for their performance in the game yesterday and I also listen to the latest gossip about who has been arrested for what lately - being cheeky to the local police officer seems to be a favourite past-time here! 

Cider – 3
Tuna – 3 (can’t understand why it’s not an option on the menu!)
Atmosphere – 3

Monday 14 March 2011

The Plough Inn, Congresbury

The Plough lies in the shadow of its bigger, brasher neighbour The Ship & Castle. I first came here last year to recover from a long and tortuous cycle ride along the Strawberry Line and on that occasion  I joined a mass of “professional cyclists” (you know, the ones who wear lycra and aren’t puffing from over-exertion) to have a drink and snack.  I loved the place instantly. The Plough Inn wouldn’t know a make-over if Lawrence Llewellen Bowen slipped over in the doorway carrying a tin of paint and some scatter cushions and that’s why I love it.

The serving areas are two small hatches, just wide enough to show off four pumps each, and the place is a series of little interconnecting rooms – some decorated with photos of Congresbury from yesteryear  (notice that the pub hasn’t changed!) and others displaying old farming implements as befits a pub named after a farming implement.  There are flagstones on the floor, shutters on the widows, open fires in the winter and nicotine-coloured lincrusta on the lower walls.  As well as being popular with the aforementioned cyclists it’s also a popular haunt for older locals. And it’s not hard to see why.  Whilst the Ship & Castle is now very much a gastro-pub The Plough maintains its position of being a traditional pub – but don’t let that make you think that the food isn’t up to much, because it is. The specials board offers such delights as venison, rabbit and chicken pie, chicken cassoulet or pheasant breast braised in cider.  However, I’m going to have what I had the last time I came … and I’ve been drooling about it ever since.

The tuna, cheese panini melt.  Yes.  I know it’s not a baguette. But it’s shaped like a squashed baguette. And for such a simple thing it’s simply delicious!  It comes with the obligatory side salad (which also includes sweetcorn) and a large handful of the most perfectly cooked chips imaginable.  When it comes to chips I’m incredibly fussy*. I don’t eat squishy chips. I don’t eat fat chips. I don’t eat big chips.  I eat crunchy chips. Small, crunchy chips. Small, crunchy, crispy chips.  And there are a fair few small, crunchy, crispy chips here. 

And what shall I have to wash it down with?  Hmmm.  On offer we have Stowford Press or Thatchers Dry on draught. Or Thatchers Katy and Gold in bottles.  That’s not to say there weren’t bottles of Magners and.or Bulmers, but if there were I didn’t notice them!  The proliferation of Thatchers cider in these parts seems to be at the possible expense of other smaller and more local producers.  Congresbury used to have a thriving cider farm some years ago and a few miles down the road in Hewish you’ll find Ben Crossman still making proper 6% farmhouse cider from apples grown in the family orchards.  All these independent pubs make such a fuss about selling real ale – I really think there could be an opportunity for the same pubs to stock a true local farmhouse cider as well as the over-processed stuff.

But I digress again.  I  mean, there are some who believe that Thatchers Dry is a proper traditional farmhouse cider … but to me it tastes as it looks – as if it is piped direct from the men’s urinal. I can’t help it. I find the orangey colour a little disconcerting and it always has a slight tang of mould – as if it has been made from all the apples that were bruised and battered and didn’t make the Gold grade. But I stoically soldier on and finish the glass - before ordering a pint of Stowford Press to see if that’s an improvement. It isn’t really, although I do wonder if next time I could purchase half a pint of each and mix them to make a truly palatable drink …

* There are those that say when it comes to food I am incredibly fussy, but don’t listen to them.  


Cider – 4
Tuna – 5
Atmosphere – 4 (Today it was full of locals – I prefer that to having to share space with the cyclists – I always have a problem knowing where to look when it comes to men in lycra …)









Monday 7 March 2011

The Red Lion, Babcary



Sunday, nice day, must be due a walk and a pint of cider somewhere interesting!  The pub walk book is consulted, Babcary comes out top of the list and off we go.

The walk takes us through muddy bridleway after muddy bridleway before forcing us to get our feet wet trying to find the stepping stones through the ford that the book promises. I decide that in fact I’d rather use the bridge in the adjacent field, so crawl under a barbed wire fence (well actually, I lie on my tummy and pull myself under) to get to it.  The walk isn’t as interesting as some, but that may have been due to the time of year – there’s not a lot of wildlife or plantlife to view - although I do keep peering into the stream and ditches that we pass to see if I can see any signs of frogspawn, I am disappointed that I can’t.  The lack of leaves on trees and shrubs also means that I can’t play the hedge dating game.  And did I mention the mud?  Rather makes me wish I’d worn my wellies.

I try to wipe the worst of the mud off my boots when we get to the Red Lion, but it’s an impossible mission.  Most of it is dry, so I sneak to the toilet to try and wash the remains off.  This is top-of-the-range Range Rover and green wellington country, and it’s bad enough that, even if I had brushed my hair this morning (which I haven’t), the close encounters with several trees on the way here has merely served to accentuate my pulled-through-a-hedge-backwards look …

And of course it’s Sunday – everyone and anyone has popped in for the roast. I spy Stowford Press on draught, order a pint and sneak off to find a quiet table that looks suitable for scruffy oiks.  If I were a beer drinker I think I would be happy – they have a number of real ales available, and those on offer change on a frequent basis.  However, once again the cider drinker is left unloved.  Oh yes, I could have had a bottle of Gaymers Orchard Reserve … but any cider that ends with the letters “ers” isn’t really a cider in my opinion – no wonder Thatcher’s are going down the route of mass production.

The main menu offers attractions such as liver and onions @ £10.75 or a beef burger @ £8.25, but a small board next to the bar offers sandwiches … and rather exotic sandwiches at that! Roasted red pepper, tomato and hallumi, Hand carved honey roast ham, eggs and mustard, sirloin of beef with caramelised onion or chicken  and bacon with cheese.  No tuna. No crab. And no baguette! I choose the chicken.

It arrives, served in a ciabatta roll, with a large handful of crips and a delicious dressed salad that includes gherkins (yuk) and tiny pickled silverskin onions – makes a change from a handful of mixed leaf!  The steak is also served in a ciabatta, with hand cut rustic (i.e. unpeeled) chips.  It takes me an hour and and a second glass of cider, but I manage to leave the table without any of the roll in my handbag. That’s a first!!

Cider – 2
Tuna – (0) Chicken ciabatta – 4
Atmosphere – 2 (More of a dining pub than a pub pub)

The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island



Across the water from Bigbury-on-sea you will find Burgh Island – although technically it’s only an island when the sea comes in.  It’s also the site of a restored 1920’s hotel and the setting for a couple of Agatha Christie’s detective.  I looked into booking a couple of nights in the hotel last year and was on the verge of doing so until I realised that I could have two weeks in the Maldives (including flights) for the same price …

But being in the area and spotting that the tide was out meant that we had to investigate … and if further encouragement were needed the Pilchard Inn could be seen in the distance just inviting us for a closer look! The area has a history steeped in smuggling and treasure and also used to be ripe for shoals of pilchards - fishermen used to launch their boats from the island shores. Now the pilchards and the fishermen have gone but the Inn remains, cashing in on the romanticism of being a “14th century smugglers Inn”.

We wander up to get a closer view of the hotel. The gates are locked shut  and warning notices inform us that the hotel area is “for guests only” … as are the benches with the views across the bay.  Everything seems to shout “Not for the likes of you”, so we decide to pop into the pub since the doors have just opened. On entering we find a very small snug area with seating for 18 – but across the other side of the bar is a larger room with a roaring log fire.  However on enquiry we are told that this area is for “Hotel Residents only”- more segregation!

But we are early and lucky enough to be able to get a table and the pub boasts a small selection of real ales together with two ciders – Thatcher’s or Heron Valley.  Yes, I’ll definitely have a Heron Valley!  The small bar quickly fills up and those who arrive half an hour later are forced to sit outside, it’s sunny but there is a nasty nip in the air … the hotel guests seem to have decided to stay in their rooms; their bar area remains empty.

Ah well, better make the most of having a table. No tuna baguettes here, still crab country you see.  But the crab baguette is beautifully presented – even if it has been taken from a huge pile of ready made ones! -  it’s wrapped in a napkin tastefully secured by a piece of string and obviously trying very hard to look rustic and 14th Century!  Rather amusingly I discover that, as well as serving the baguettes prepared at the hotel and sent down to feed the peasants, the Inn also offers evening food on a Friday night – but only for hotel residents - who perhaps want to live life a little close to the edge and visit a common pub for the evening!  It’s enough for me to decide that I really would rather go for the two weeks in the Maldives!

Cider – 3
Tuna – (0) but crab baguette 4
Atmosphere – 1

Thursday 3 March 2011

The Aquarium Bar, South Sands


Technically not a pub, but the bar of a hotel, the Aquarium Bar is named after the rather large fish tank which is built into the wall next to the bar. It is home to the biggest lobster I have ever seen, a couple of flat fish hiding in the sand and some snails.  Not exactly exotic, but in the event of an emergency it’s nice to see that there would be a bit of food available. The bar looks out over South Sands beach, which is situated just outside of Salcombe. I’m told property prices here are second only to those at Sandbanks, Poole and looking at the view I can well believe it!

So after a brisk walk up and down the surrounding hills to get here what better way to relax than with a cider. There’s nothing on draught, but a quick enquiry leads to the assertion that I can have a bottle of Bulmers … my face gave my feelings on that away … well, we also have some bottles of a local cloudy dry cider if you prefer?  Oooh yes please. 

It turns out to be Heron Valley. I take a sip – it’s delicious!  Cold and refreshing. Would I like another?  I don’t mind if I do.  This time I ask if I can have the bottle as well, which tells me that a full ten varieties of apples are used in the cider process – bearing further wonderful original names as well as the usual Dabinett and Kingston Black - Fair Maid of Devon, Hangy Down Clusters, Foxwhelp, Browns, Sheeps Nose, Ten Commandments, Pig Snout and my favourite – Slap me Girdle!

Much like fellow Devon producer Luscombes, Heron Valley also do a roaring trade in organic apple juice and ginger beer.  But I can fully recommend their cider – as an added bonus it is totally organic, without any of those sulphites added.

The bar is quiet today, it is a Friday after all and the holiday season is yet to begin in earnest, but I can imagine that it gets packed out in the summer months.   I consult the menu … no Tuna baguette here.  We’re in Crab country again – and Salcombe Crab at that!  A Salcombe Crab sandwich on brown sounds lovely.  And it is! Served with a small side salad of rocket and balsamic and a handful of crisps it tastes delicious. Although half is secreted in my handbag for afternoon tea …

Cider - 3 (Not much choice, but then you don’t need much choice when the cider tastes as good as this!)

Tuna - (0 – not on the menu) but Crab – 4 (The only way it could have been better is if it was Tuna …)

Atmosphere – 2 (Much too posh to be a proper pub, but the wonderful view made up for that!!)

Tuesday 22 February 2011

A glass of Cider at Knightshaye Court ...

Now, I'm not sure that this fits the criteria at all. But I'm including it to show that other types of cider are available other than Thatcher's Gold ...

It's Sunday, a visit to a National Trust property is on the cards.  But which one?  The decision is easy.  The only local one open this early in the year is Knightshaye Court in Devon.  We pile into the car and set off.

There was a time I would have laughed myself silly at the thought of ever being a paid-up member of the National Trust. But old age dulls the mind, and a love of mansions, ancient artefacts and (in the case of the twenty-ager) cream teas means I'm a regular visitor. And so after a stroll around the house we decide to try the cafe ... where I am delighted to discover that the National Trust have kept their word - "Many of the products we use are sourced locally and are regional specialities" - and on sale here they have bottles of Luscombe Devon cider.  Luscombe have been making cider for about 20 years, but now seem to be better known primarily as a soft-drink manufacturer - particularly organic apple juice. They've not lost their touch when it comes to cider though! It's dry, it's light and it's refreshing ... and full marks for the National Trust for managing something most pubs can't - serving a decent cider.

The George Hotel, Frome

The twenty-ager is home from Uni and she needs to be entertained ... I visited Frome for the first time in January following a recommendation from a friend and I have to say I wasn't disappointed - even though most of the rather wonderfully eclectic shops were shut for the month!  Frome seemed to be just the sort of place to take a discerning twenty-ager ...

The Farmers' Market had a lovely selection of  flavoured cheddar cheeses, some lovely smoked salmon  and a nice pot of Guernsey cream to tempt me.  And the cake shop offered an array of cakes suitable for afternoon tea. My mind was made up ... this evening I would prepare a selection of sandwiches (salmon and cream cheese, tuna and red onion, cucumber and egg mayonnaise) all with the crusts cut off, followed by cakes and cream!

So when it came to having a spot of lunch and knowing that the twenty-ager would want something reasonably "normal" (as opposed to some of the more fancier foods available in the more upmarket catering establishments in the town) the decision was taken to go into The George for a pub lunch.

The George is a Wadworths pub, so it offers an array of beer products ... but when it comes to cider ... Thatcher's Gold it is - despite peering over the bar I couldn't even see any bottled ciders to offer an alternative!

The food menu seemed to comprise of three separate menus, one detailing the "main menu", one for specials, and one for lunch ...however, it took a trip to three different tables to ensure we got one of each!  The lunch menu offered a tuna and red onion baguette, which I have to admit was very tempting,  but mindful of my afternoon tea plan I thought I'd give it a miss and have "Catch of the Day" instead. The order was taken at the table by a young lady who also took the next drinks order, and claimed to have changed the beer barrel - leading to us wondering if she was also doing the cooking or if there were other members of staff. On arrival "Catch of the Day" proved to be haddock, the food was hot, plentiful and filled a gap.

The George also offers accommodation  - it is a Hotel after all - but it knows its place, the menu isn't pretentious, the place is clean and the service is good - when you want a pint and a bite to eat as a break from shopping it does the job.  I imagine there are other pubs in Frome that offer the more genuine "real pub atmosphere", but I wasn't looking for that today, although to be fair we were seated in what was more of a dining area than the bar.

Cider - 2
Tuna - (0) but 3 for my meal
Atmosphere - 2 (more of an eatery than a pub)

Thursday 17 February 2011

Lamb and Flag, Cribbs, Bristol.


It’s Tuesday. I’ve been shopping at The Mall. I’ve a couple of hours to waste before going to the 02 Academy. 

Pop in here and have a bite to eat and a drink maybe?

It looks like a pub … but it’s a Harvester.  Harvesters like to pass themselves off as pubs. But they’re not.  Not by any stretch of the imagination

For example … the only cider they offer is draught Strongbow or Blackthorn or perhaps a tempting bottle of Magners. Original or Pear.  Bleugh. Stop it now.

A gaggle of shop workers come and join me at the bar, this is obviously a regular stop off on the way home.  Poor dears.

But perhaps, despite the bar, it’s a pub-food serving restaurant?  Maybe.  But what’s all this about “as much salad as you can eat”?  What sort of respectable pub-goer wants to eat salad?

And there’s no jacket potatoes or sandwiches on the menu … it’s all steak, grills and combos.  It’s monstrous and I want to leave right now.

At the table behind me sit a couple of young men.  One of them asks the waiter if he can “Get a spit roast please” … and then he and his partner go back to discussing the benefits of cruising. It’s a few moments before I realise that they mean the high seas variety! But it’s sad that this was the highlight of my visit – and purely down to my childish sense of humour …

Cider 0
Food 0
Atmosphere 0

Wednesday 9 February 2011

Pyne’s Bar, The Bedford Hotel, Sidmouth


This year I won’t be staying at my usual hotel for Sidmouth for Folk Fest. Instead I’m going to save some money and have booked somewhere cheaper. However, being wary that the place might turn out to be not of my normal standard the decision was taken to go on a recce this weekend to check it out …

And so it is that I find myself getting blown along the Promenade at Sidmouth. Seriously, it’s incredibly windy, the waves are angry and I’m starting to get cold … Having reached the end of the Prom I’m really looking forward to the walk back, when the wind won’t be in my face!  After being forced up Jacob’s Ladder (a very high and open set of steps that lead me to whinge all the way up that I might get blown away) I manage to get out of the wind to admire the Connaught Gardens and then it’s back to the cold of the Prom again.  And now it’s also starting to rain … time to seek shelter.

Normally when I come to Sidmouth my pub of choice is The Ship in Old Fore Street – the food and choice of cider are excellent. But today I’m persuaded that a window seat in The Bedford Hotel with a view of the sea would be a perfect way to enjoy the town without getting cold and wet.

I’ve been to The Bedford before a few times, it’s a reasonable enough venue during Folk Fest – I’ve never had occasion to eat here though, eating is more of an afterthought when you are concentrating on the music and taking photographs of the sock and sandal combinations …

And so to the bar … I must admit that I usually frequent The Bedford later on in the evening when I visit Sidmouth, and by then I’ve already sampled a variety of ciders in the other establishments in town.  So it comes as a shock to discover that the only cider on offer is … Thatcher’s Gold.  I’m seriously starting to dislike the sight of that name on a pump now.  Gold seems to be taking over from Strongbow and Blackthorn as the must-have cider for Landlords. And whilst anything has to be better than the aforementioned fizzy rubbish it does seem to be at the expense of some of Thatcher’s other offerings – Katy for example. Why do so many pubs seem to think having a cider on draught and some bottles of Magners and Bulmers is enough to keep the cider drinkers happy? 

And breathe and relax, I take a seat by the window from where I can survey the weather buffeting the more hardier souls and consult the menu.  It’s a very posh menu – smoked haddock served on a bed of spinach, golden fried fish and chips with peas and tartare sauce or soup served with a cheese sandwich for the princely sum of £8.00.  There’s a selection of sandwiches too – but of course, we are now in Lyme Bay … so no Tuna on the menu.  Instead it’s crab.   It arrives promptly, with a nice dressed salad garnish and a handful of crisps. All jolly tasty, but not tuna … I do like my tuna.   Ah well ... roll on July when  I can get back to The Ship and decent cider!

Cider – 2 (I’m getting totally fed up of Gold) 
Tuna 0 – but (3) for my crab sandwich 
Atmosphere 2 – the pensioners seem to love it, but for me it’s not the same without the sound of flute, ukulele and bodhran.

Friday 4 February 2011

My local ...

A chalkboard in the entrance to my local proudly boasts that they have nine ciders on sale. It's a Somerset pub in the heart of cider-producing territory so you would hope they have a decent offering. Let's take a closer look ...

On draught we have

1. Strongbow

2. Blackthorn

Both of which are mass-produced carbonated rubbish.

In bottles:-

3. Bulmers 

4. Magners (Irish cider ... Hmmph)

Another couple of mass-produced, over-carbonated pop masquerading as cider.

5. WKD Core

6. Brothers Strawberry

I don't know how they can call either of these cider.

7. Aspalls Draught

8. Aspalls Dry

Not Somerset produced, and not a traditional cloudy scrumpy, but in the absence of anything better I like a bottle of Aspalls, particularly the 7% dry. It's got quite a distinct apple taste - not too sharp and not too dry. And the best bit is ... I'm one of the few people trusted with the special Aspalls glass!    

9. Aspalls Blush

Although they don't actually have amy of this in at the moment, nor space on the shelves. Which doesn't bother me. The time I tried some it reminded me of being a teenager and drinking 'cider'n'black' on a nearby town's practically derelict pier and almost falling through the planking on the way home. Before being jolly ill.

Tonight the rugby is on, the place is packed, so far Enfland are winning. Everyone seems happy ... It's very noisy - the sort of cacophony you get when men get over-excited, but it's nice to see the place busy. 

Later I shall probably venture forth for a kebab. The chef here tries his best, there are ham or cheese rolls behind the bar and the specials board features lamb shank or grilled bacon and everything comes with chips.  But judging from the smell that emanates from the kitchen they don't seem to change the chip fat very often and that has always put me off grabbing a bite to eat here.  
  
Cider - 3.5 (that score is purely for the Aspalls but then this place is not a free house, so I suppose they are doing their best!)  Tuna - 0 (but the kebab is always good) Atmosphere - 5. It's my local after all.

Wednesday 2 February 2011

The New Inn, Priddy


Ooh la la.  It’s Sunday and it’s busy - locals and outdoor loving geology student types, it’s a bit late for food – this was an afterthought after all, but the cider, ohhhhhhh … the cider.

How many varieties are there? Goodness ... six on draught, 10 in boxes and about another seven bottled. Every product produced by Bristol based Original Cider Company and Glastonbury based Orchard Pig is on sale here. So much choice – so little time and then there’s the driving home to consider …

I settle for a half of Bristol Port (rich, ruby and with the slight port taste that comes from standing in old port barrels for a while) and scan the bar area, to my left is the entrance to “The Cider Barn” – an area of the pub set aside for cider drinkers, complete with straw, barrels and decorated with shelf loads of empty cider bottles. Over the other side of the bar the geology students are finishing their lunch before embarking on another outdoor pursuit and behind me a bunch of locals are discussing their hangovers from the night before. 
The chap I assume to be the Landlord must have had a heavy week – he certainly seems to have had a sense of humour bypass and has the air of someone who can’t wait to close up for the day. Which is a shame, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt for today.

A glass of  InnCider next – well it seemed rude not to, after all this is a cider created especially for the New Inn by Orchard Pig. It’s not bad, but it soon becomes apparent that I’m really not going to be able to sample everything on the cider menu – the chauffeur is complaining that he hates being in a pub and not being able to drink …

Well, we could always return for The Priddy Folk Festival I suggest – except there is a slight snag with that idea. I don’t do camping. And I’m not allowed to buy the VW campervan that I covet … maybe if I bring him out here a few more times and he realises that he’s still not going to be able to sample all the ciders he might relent and the VW will be mine …

Score

Cider – 5  Tuna – (0) not sampled this time! Atmosphere – 1 (grumpy landlord today)

Well worthy of a second visit to up the score methinks …

The Bear Inn, Wiveliscombe

It's another cold January Saturday. I'm totally fed up of being indoors and so we decide that a car ride is in order.  It's my turn to choose the destination.  I think about local places I've never been to. And settle on Wellington. It's not far and it might be interesting ...

It's not. It reminds me of my home town, charity shops, cafes, supermarkets and boarded up town centre shops - although they do still have a couple of gift shops which is more than we do!  There is a lovely looking fish and game shop, but I'm not allowed to buy the Arbroath smokies because I won't have time to eat them in the morning.

We walk around the town centre, admiring some of the buildings and reading the plaques adorned to some of them detailing the history of the property.  However, when we seem to have seen everything it's still a bit early for lunch. We head back to the car and decide to drive to Wiveliscombe.

A short time later we park the car and wander up the hill to what I assume must be the centre. There's a co-op, a library with empty book shelves, an antiques shop, a butchers, a gun shop and The Old Courthouse - a small three storey department store which looks both outside and inside like a mini version of Liberty.  It seems an odd combination of shops, but then this is Somerset and when I think about it all needs are covered!

Wiveliscombe is home to two breweries - Cotleigh and Exmoor and it was once able to boast that it had 28 pubs.  Some of the previous 28 sites form The Brewery Plaque Trail, and these premises are marked with ceramic and glass tiles to denote their previous existence as a pub - The Anchor is depicted by a fish, The Bristol by the SS Great Britain and so on. Spotting the plaques makes for a great game!  But the wind chill is getting up and it's time to decide which of the three pubs to visit.

The Old Court House has a cellar bar, The White Hart is big and ... white and The Bear Inn looks to have a higgledy-piggledy feel to it. The Bear it is then! Locals are sat playing crib, reading papers, chatting and availing themselves of the cheap-to-pensioners lunches. It's really busy in here and so nice to see people partaking of the old-fashioned form of entertainment. I try to remember how to play cribbage, I used to play with my Grandfather when I was younger, but the rules and aims of the game have sadly completely slipped from my memory.

As befits a freehouse set twixt two breweries they offer both Cotleigh and Exmoor Ales, but when it comes to cider it's Gold on offer.  Not to worry. One day I will find a pub with something different on sale.  The menu is proper pub food - ham, egg, and chips, steak and ale pie and proper steak and kidney pudding and the specials board includes pork and leek sausages with mash.  Amongst the jacket potatoes and sandwich filllings I spy tuna and mayonnaise and choose to have it in a granary baguette.

It arrives with a very small salad garnish and I commence cutting it into manageable pieces.  The bread is delicious, the filling less so - the tuna has not been drained fully and there's not enough mayo to disguise the brine.  I set to work with cucumber and salad cream to try to take away some of the salty taste. It works!  I save half for later and have a chat with the pensioners to my left about the fact that due to Somerset County Council's threat to close of the library (in common with several libaries in the county) the residents have checked all the books out, hence the empty shelves!

This is the sort of place that I'd like to return to on a warmer day, to spend longer strolling around the street admiring the buildings, if I run out of places to visit I'll be back.

Score:- Cider - 2   Baguette -  2 Atmosphere - 4

George Inn, Nettlebridge

It’s Sunday again.  Time for a walk … And this week it’s off to Nettlebridge for a stroll through the forest and surrounding countryside before popping into a nearby pub for lunch!

The walk through Harridge Woods follows a stream which flows past caves, ruined water mills, cottages and dormouse conservation areas. I love the sound of running water and also exploring old ruins so I was in my element. After two hours we were back at the car and ready for the short drive to The George. 

The George was until recently known as The Nettlebridge Inn.  It’s been rebranded and the menu offers fare akin to a Harvester – “All meals include free salad” pronounced a chalk board at the entrance to the car park.

As I approach the bar my eyes scan the pumps – Thatcher’s Gold? Check. Oooh Rich’s on draught too!  And what’s this? Lilley & Sons Apples and Pears? I’ve never heard of that one before. And that’s not a cider-making name I’ve come across either.  I’m not really an apple and pear lover though, so I decide to order the Rich’s.  “Are you sure?” says the barman, “I saw you looking at the Apples & Pears – would you like to try a bit?” Now I’m not one to turn down a free sample, so I acquiesce.  It’s a different taste – reminds me a bit of nail varnish (not that I’ve ever partaken of nail varnish, what I mean is, it tastes of the smell of nail varnish) but it slips down easily and I’m thirsty! The barman tells me that it is produced “down the road” and I make a note to check it out later. 

I order a pint and consult the menu. The chauffeur laughs, and tells me that he knows what I'm going to have. I huffily tell him that I have to have the thing he knows I'm going to have because I'm doing research for the book I'm writing "I'll have a pint of cider and a tuna baguette please". I explain (or make up on the spot) that this is the reason we have been visiting so many pubs and I have been mainly choosing the tuna baguette for lunch ... it hasn't been, it's just I think I'm addicted to tuna baguettes, but I like the idea. And so here we are ...

No baguettes on offer here though, but I can have a tuna and mayonnaise sandwich on granary bread.  And so I do! I take a seat at a table and wonder if “All meals” includes sandwiches.  The place is reminiscent of a Harvester inside as well - it’s packed with people having lunch and seems very popular.  But it’s not really a pub anymore. I wonder if there is another bar elsewhere, but a quick look seems to indicate not.

My sandwich arrives, thick bread and served on a bed of tortilla chips (bleugh).  I take a mouthful and decide that what this sandwich really needs is some red onion.  I sneak to the salad bar!  Putting a few bits of red onion, cucumber and sweetcorn on a plate I return to my chair and set about customising my sandwich. Delicious. (Although half goes into the handbag for later!)

When I get a phone signal I google Lilley & Son. Hmmph. They are actually the distributor for The Original Cider Company range (Broadoak, Bristol Port etc.) and Apples & Pears is made for them by The OCC. I feel a little cheated, because I thought I’d found a new cider farm to visit …

Cider – 3   Tuna Baguette – 3 (in original form, 4 after I’d souped it up!) Atmosphere - 1

The Chapel, Cotford St Luke

For those that don’t know it Cotford St Luke is a relatively new village built on the site of the former Tone Vale Hospital. Some people must still feel that there is some sort of stigma attached to the name “Tone Vale” (it was the Somerset County Asylum) for the new development has been renamed “Cotford St Luke”. I’m not sure where the Cotford bit comes from, but the hospital chapel in the grounds was known as the “Church of St Luke”. 

The hospital was built in about 1895 and closed its doors 100 years later; remaining empty for a few years (if like me you have an attachment to wrecks, ruins and relics you can still find some fascinating photos taken whilst it was empty on sites such as www.whateversleft.co.uk and www.urbexforums.co.uk) until building work started around it. The hospital itself has now been (and in parts is still being) renovated and remodelled as apartments as have many of the other original buildings, plenty of modern estate houses have sprung up in and around the site and after driving around for a bit we reach our destination - The Chapel itself.  Now transformed into a pub/restaurant and surrounded by little boxes it makes a change from the normal “XXth Century Coaching Inn”.

It’s 2.00pm on a Saturday. Outside the place is a little untidy but inside The Chapel is huge – and practically empty. A family of five (including granddad and grandma) are finishing a meal, and there’s one other person at the bar.  The place has been tastefully modernised, a mezzanine dining level has been put in and there must be seating for about 100 people both up there and down in the bar area. I sneak a look at the evening menu (no tuna baguette here – the kitchen is now shut), it’s all chicken stuffed with brie, slow roasted belly pork, lamb shank, grilled sea bass and three different types of steak - the sort of thing that seems to depressingly be becoming standard evening "gastro" pub fare nowadays.

All is not lost. The Chapel prides itself on being a CAMRA pub and offers a selection of beers and ciders from the Cotleigh Brewery.  Sadly the beers may be real, but the cider offering is dire – Swedish (what on earth do Swedes know about making cider?) – two different fruit flavours or an alcohol free (?!?!) variety … But good old Gold is also on offer, so I settle for a half.

After having a really good look around, trying to work out which of the interior fittings are original (the tiles) and which have been reclaimed from elsewhere (practically everything else!) I take a seat in the squishy, comfy chairs near the fireplace and avail myself of the pile of magazines on a nearby coffee table.  The place is eerily quiet – but then most of the local residents are probably out shopping and I would imagine that this place really wants to be a restaurant rather than a pub.

Seems a bit unfair to give it a score since it was standard Thatcher’s cider, I didn’t sample any food and there was no atmosphere because it was empty!  Maybe I should return for an evening meal – although to be honest the idea depresses me.

As I leave I take a quick look around the outside.  The building really is beautiful but its new setting amongst all these identikit boxes make me feel quite sorry for it and the depressed feeling increases ... maybe it's actually quite apt given the location.

Tuesday 1 February 2011

The Red Tile, Cossington

It’s mid-week again and I’m struck down by another bout of “Can cook, but won’t cook”-itis. I suggest a trip out for a meal and am asked to choose a pub.  The outlying villages in this part of the world all boast a decent pub with decent food – it’s just the town that doesn’t! Axbridge, Bleadon, Burtle, Cross … and that’s just villages starting with the  first three letters of the alphabet … I choose Cossington.  It’s a while since I’ve been there and the last time I went I had the most delicious Lemon Sole.

The Red Tile is a popular pub with foodies and locals alike.  Many of the tables are already reserved when we get there, but we squeeze in on the remaining one in the small dining area (there’s a larger area too, but it’s a bit more out of the way).  From my seat I can see through into the ordinary bar where the local skittles team are gathered. It’s a busy night.  And it’s going to get busier … my eye is drawn to a sign telling me that tonight is “Acoustic Night” – I love a bit of music.

Now … this is where I deviate from my quest slightly … I’ve not been feeling well for some time – a general lack of energy, tiredness and some other symptoms we won’t go into! A friend suggests I try cutting out the carbs in my diet for a while and to see how I get on.  I've tried it for a time at the weekend and felt better, so I thought I'd really try and stick to it for a couple of weeks. Trouble is, no carbs means … no bread … and no cider.  And so tonight I’m going to have to order a glass of dry white wine instead (compared to cider wine is practically carb-free!). And due to the no bread rule I won’t be able to have a tuna baguette either … Please don’t be too disappointed dear reader … I can still give you a feel for the place!

So to go with my white wine I order a bacon-wrapped chicken breast and salad.  The chicken breast is HUGE, quite the biggest I’ve ever seen – they must breed massive chickens out here on the Somerset levels - much like us girls when it comes to breasts.   The salad offers more than the average "garnish" – mixed leaf, peppers, cucumber, tomato, beetroot and a splodge of coleslaw.  The menu here is large and varied – the specials board actually runs to six boards – including one for starters, one for fish, one detailing the two pies of the day  and one for puddings! A large menu tends to worry me – how much of it can really be “freshly prepared”? But despite my misgivings, I have to say I’ve never had a bad meal at The Red Tile.

As I finish my meal the band (The Polden Ridge Mountain Boys) strike up a rousing version of “The Gypsy Rover” and I join in … well, by now my glass of wine has turned into a bottle and a glass … Forty-five minutes later the chauffeur practically has to drag me out to the car.

So how to score The Red Tile? Since I can’t give my usual mark out of five for the cider availability, another mark out of five for the tuna baguette, and a further mark out of five for the general atmosphere of the pub ... I shall have to put the marks for wine and food in brackets instead …

So The Red Tile scores ... 0 (3) – 0 (4) - 4

The Carew Arms, Crowcombe

Now this is what I call a pub!  The sort that some people whould say needs of a good lick of paint – both inside and outside! The only problem is we are now on the way home after having lunch at The Ball Ball Inn … not to worry, we can sample a drink and the atmosphere surely?

There’s one space left in the car park … always a sign of a popular pub – but is it popular for the right reason? We walk around to the front and head towards the door, passing a room set out as a “tea room” complete with tables, chairs, and plastic teacloths. Quaint … but at the same time rather ominous. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a pub with a tearoom attached!

We bypass the tearoom and now face a choice of two doors.  I select the left hand one, tentatively push it open and enter the bar.  It’s immediately obvious that this is where the locals gather – and there’s quite a crowd of them.  The serving area here is more of a hatch which was almost impossible to get to, given that two large locals are stood in front of it!  But we manage.  I daren’t ask for a glass of wine, it really doesn’t seem to be that sort of place, so I ask for a half of cider instead. Sadly I couldn’t see what sort of cider it was, because I couldn’t really see the pumps … but it tasted good, which is what counts! 

We took a seat at a rustic table and I surveyed my surroundings.  I love a pub that looks as if it hasn’t been decorated in decades, the paint here is that lovely shade of creamy yellow which you don’t often see now that the smoking ban has been in force for a few years. As befits a pub on Exmoor the décor would offend animal-rights campaigners – plenty of reminders of hunts gone by.  A huge inglenook fireplace complete with roaring fire kept the room warm and the highlight of my visit was discovering that they sold Double Diamond – a real blast from the past!  The locals were trying to recall the date that a photograph had been taken, based on the fact that they were watching a television in the bar – it had to have been brought in for a special occasion, maybe the Royal Wedding? What year as that?  In the quest for an answer they even included us in the discussion, which was lovely, too often you feel a sense of them and us when you visit pubs other than your local!

The smells wafting from the large dining room to the rear of the pub were good – probably a roast was being served, but since we eaten we couldn’t indulge!  I would imagine that this is another pub popular with walkers and cyclists, but hopefully I’ll get a chance to return here to sample the cuisine another day. 

Cider 3,  Tuna Baguette 0 – already eaten,  Atmosphere - 5

The Blue Ball Inn, Triscombe

It’s Sunday.  I fancy a nice walk in the countryside followed by lunch in a pub …

And so we set off for the Quantocks. As we near our destination the weather starts to close in, and by the time we get to Dead Woman’s Ditch it’s misty and raining and I haven’t brought my walking boots or a waterproof coat, so I’m not really dressed for this sort of weather.  Looks like the walk is cancelled … but that doesn’t rule out the pub lunch does it?!

And so we drive around for a bit admiring Quantock villages and houses and eventually find ourselves at The Blue Ball Inn.  This place features in the Good Pub Guide and from the outside it is a lovely old thatched barn (I’ve heard a story that says the place was rolled down the hill to its present location – not sure if that is true or not!) and inside it is all wooden ceilings and stairs. You go up a staircase to get to the dining area and up another staircase to reach the bar. Rows of long benches and narrow tables fill the bar area, and today there’s a dog flaked out in front of a wood burner at one end of the room.  It’s a popular pub with walkers and cyclists, but today there aren’t many of either and instead it’s full of three generation families eating their Sunday roast. Unfortunately the bar area also seems to be populated by some of those over-eager-parents and their offspring – you know, the ones who call their children “darling” and give in to their every demand – the ones I want to give a good clip around the ear … and not just the children. However, I glare at any that think they might like to sit next to me and manage to spend an agreeable hour reading the paper, drinking and eating without having to sit on my hands!

Once again Thatcher’s Gold is on offer (does no one else make a draught cider?).  No, we haven’t booked a table we tell the barman. We can look at the menu but … the place is due to change hands tomorrow and so food stocks have been run right down  … if we’d like to place an order they will check with chef on availability. 

I settle for a cheese/ham ploughmans – unsure if that’s a choice that I haven’t made or if I am going to get both cheese and ham.  And, phew, chef can oblige! And thank goodness for that, when it arrives it looks lovely – a chunk of cheddar, two thick slices of delicious ham, two pickled onions, a small salad, hunk of bread (which I drool at but which has to remain untouched!), two types of chutney and a dollop of onion marmalade! Scrumptious!!  The chauffeur has chosen a beef sandwich – one and a half rounds of doorstep bread with thick chunks of beef  betwixt – luckily for me tuna mayonnaise sandwiches weren’t on the menu, otherwise I think the new regime may just have been given the boot a week early!

The plan is to return here another day to maybe sample the smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwich (which wasn’t available today) the nearest thing to Tuna and Mayo on offer here – that’s how posh this place is!

Since I can’t give my usual mark out of five for the cider availability, another mark out of five for the tuna baguette, and a further mark out of five for the general atmosphere of the pub ... I shall have to put the marks for the food in brackets instead … 

Cider - 2  Tuna Baguette 0 – not available so (3) for the food.  Atmosphere - 1

Monday 31 January 2011

The Old Inn, Hutton

The Old Inn in Hutton village is a place I have driven past twice a day for more years that I care to think about.  Hutton is a Britain in Bloom village - they seem to win an award every year! And there is a strong sense of community - every year they have their own cider making festival, where villagers are encouraged to donate their unwanted apples in exchange (if they want it) for the cider that is then produced. What a wonderful cooperative idea! 

The Old Inn is the only pub in the village (unless you count The Walnut Tree on the outskirts - which most people don't!)  The Landlord, who took over a couple of years ago, used to have The Coopers Arms in Highbridge (when it was a proper pub and not the dive it has since become) so he knows a thing or two about running a pub ...

It's a Saturday lunchtime, a gaggle of locals surround the bar and one or two couples are sat at the tables finishing or awaiting meals. Once again it's either a pint of Thatcher's Gold or Stowford Press on offer. I take the Gold. And a seat near the woodburner. The Old Inn might be so named, but it's not as old as some parts of this Doomsday Book-mentioned village, everything is clean and tidy, although the decking at the front looks to have had a fair few cigarette butts stuffed between the gaps and looks to be a fire risk to me!!

A red light above the kitchen door signifies that my tuna baguette is ready and the waitress/barmaid brings it over.  Again, it's a foot long white baguette, the tuna and mayo filling leans more to the tuna side than the mayo, which some might find perfect, but I like a good even mix! The salad garnish comprises a handful of mixed leaves - including rocket (yay), 2 slices of cucumber, some sliced pepper, half a tomato and some cress.  And what seems to be the obligatory handful of crisps. Once again, half the baguette is consumed and the rest goes into the napkin for dinner.

Although this time, I don't get to eat it for dinner, as I walk into the house later I am greeted by the dogs - one of whom (unbeknownst to me) sticks his head into my handbag, extracts the napkin-wrapped leftover and swallows it with what must have been one bite.

I shall give a mark out of five for the cider availability, another mark out of five for the tuna baguette, and a further mark out of five for the general atmosphere of the pub ...
So on that basis The Old Inn scores ... 2 - 3 - 2

The Cross Ways, West Huntspill

So, closer to home for my next expedition then! It's a Wednesday, the middle of my first full week back at work, and I'm too tired to cook (that's my excuse!). The pubs in town don't really do food - so if you want a decent pub meal you have to drive.

Luckily the Cross Ways isn't too far away, and despite two changes of owners since the "glory days" when Mick Ronca had it, it still does a good pint (of beer) and good food.  Of course, it's changed a lot since then, it's been opened up, new windows, new paint, new toilets ... in a way it's lost some of its charm, but the open fires are still there, the staff are lovely and the locals are the same old faces! Unfortunately Wednesday seems to be the main catering staff's night off and it's left to a young eager-to-please chap to fulfill our order.  Mine was easy ... "I'll have the tuna mayonnaise baguette please" ...

And a pint of Thatcher's Gold ... It seems to me that a lot of pubs now make a big thing about how they have "local farmhouse" ciders on sale.  However, the ones that really, genuinely do are few and far between - I'm afraid that as far as I'm concerned Thatcher's are no longer the business they were, they are fast becoming the new Taunton Cider company.  A view I've held even before I saw the very early morning delivery of french apple concentrate being delivered to the factory in Sandford.  But I digress ...  The Cross Ways do sell a couple of other types of cider - they have Long Ashton (or is it Stowford, I can never remember) on tap, and they may have even had some Black Rat - but I was still feeling a bit fragile, so further research will have to take place!

After an hour wait (yes ... an hour, but it was quite busy and the young lad was trying his best!) the food arrives.  My tuna baguette is more a six inch wide slice of thick white French stick with ample tuna, mayonniase and spring onion filling served with a salad garnish (lettuce, cucumber and tomato) and a handful of crisps.  I have to cut the baguette into more manageable mouthfuls, and once again have to resort to a napkin and the handbag for half of it ...

Yes, the bread was thick and not what I would call a baguette but the addition of the spring onion gave it an extra little kick, but an hour wait is pushing it!

And now for the score ...  (You will recall that I am giving a mark out of five for the cider availability, another mark out of five for the tuna baguette, and a further mark out of five for the general atmosphere of the pub ... So on that basis The Cross Ways scores ... 2 - 2 - 3  (Although I am going to have to go back to double check the cider and on a day when the "real" chef is in the house.)

The Ship Inn, Porlock Weir

That's the bottom Ship Inn, not be to confused with the top Ship Inn which is actually in Porlock village itself ...

And it's a very, very cold Sunday in early January - the 9th to be precise.  I've had the dreaded flu bug since Christmas Eve and this is the first time I've ventured out for a "car ride".  I've no idea where we are going, it's a mystery tour ... although as we go towards Minehead and I'm told that's not our destination it becomes pretty clear where we are going, because there's not a lot of choice left!

The car park in Porlock Weir still charges on a Sunday, in the middle of winter, even when there is no one else around apart from a few hardy fishermen.  We put some money in the meter and survey the surroundings. Beach, channel to let boats in, weir, sea, public conveniences, harbourmasters office, craft work-spaces and shops, a few houses, really posh hotel/restaurant (closed - we're here out of season remember?!), tea rooms (ditto) and ... pub!

After a brief look at the beach and harbour we wander in.  A small wood stove is burning ineffectually in the middle of the bar and it's really cold in here! Still not to worry, I order a pint of Cornish Rattler (it's that or Bulmers, so much for the range of local real ales and ciders) and study the menu.  It's a while since I've eaten anything due to being poorly and the idea of a "full meal" doesn't appeal, the only thing I've managed to eat in the last few days has been a bread roll with some tuna and mayonnaise in it.  So, despite the allure of pub staples such as "Steak and Ale Pie", "Ham, Egg and Chips" or even from the "Specials Board" "Cheese Omelette" I choose the tuna baguette ... and thus unbeknown to me, my mission starts ...

I have to say it was lovely, a foot long white baguette, plenty of tuna, plenty of mayo, served with a small side salad and coleslaw. However, it soon becomes  apparent that I'm not going to manage to eat it all, so I surreptitiously wrap two-thirds of it in a couple of napkins and slip it into my handbag for later.

The pub itself had a slight olde-worlde feel, due in part to the afore-mentioned woodburner but also the low beams - however the addition of a really rather cheap and nasty dining room (think fish and chip bar circa 1968) really let it down. I spotted a table marked numbered "68" which made me realise that cheap dining room and outdoor seating would make this an horrendous place to eat in high season.

However, for a cold, cold early January it was nice to sit (with my coat on) and look out of the window at the fishermen.  After the meal we set out for a nice walk around Porlock Weir. It was lovely weather for walking - so cold you had to walk briskly to keep warm!  The "beach" is shingle, there is a sort-of island (Turkey Island?) over the harbour bridge with a little row of cottages on it and a couple of half-collapsed pill boxes.  Walking around the island and back over the bridge brings you back to the harbour master's office and the row of craft work/shops where I imagine in the height of the season you can see the artisans at work and purchase from them.  There's also a bulk chinese/thai food production facility and a ladies clothing shop.  Walking on and you reach a path which stretches through the marshland and onto a coastal walk.  But I was getting colder and so after we'd walked in that direction for a while it was time to turn back to the warmth of the car.

I suppose I should be giving the results of my survey some sort of a score ...  I shall give a mark out of five for the cider availability, another mark out of five for the tuna baguette, and a further mark out of five for the general atmosphere of the pub ... So on that basis The Ship Inn scores ... 2 - 4 - 2