The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island

Across the water from Bigbury-on-sea you will find Burgh Island – although technically it’s only an island when the sea comes in.  It’s also the site of a restored 1920’s hotel and the setting for a couple of Agatha Christie’s detective.  I looked into booking a couple of nights in the hotel last year and was on the verge of doing so until I realised that I could have two weeks in the Maldives (including flights) for the same price …

But being in the area and spotting that the tide was out meant that we had to investigate … and if further encouragement were needed the Pilchard Inn could be seen in the distance just inviting us for a closer look! The area has a history steeped in smuggling and treasure and also used to be ripe for shoals of pilchards - fishermen used to launch their boats from the island shores. Now the pilchards and the fishermen have gone but the Inn remains, cashing in on the romanticism of being a “14^th century smugglers Inn”.

We wander up to get a closer view of the hotel. The gates are locked shut  and warning notices inform us that the hotel area is “for guests only” … as are the benches with the views across the bay.  Everything seems to shout “Not for the likes of you”, so we decide to pop into the pub since the doors have just opened. On entering we find a very small snug area with seating for 18 – but across the other side of the bar is a larger room with a roaring log fire.  However on enquiry we are told that this area is for “Hotel Residents only”- more segregation!

But we are early and lucky enough to be able to get a table and the pub boasts a small selection of real ales together with two ciders – Thatcher’s or Heron Valley.  Yes, I’ll definitely have a Heron Valley!  The small bar quickly fills up and those who arrive half an hour later are forced to sit outside, it’s sunny but there is a nasty nip in the air … the hotel guests seem to have decided to stay in their rooms; their bar area remains empty.

Ah well, better make the most of having a table. No tuna baguettes here, still crab country you see.  But the crab baguette is beautifully presented – even if it has been taken from a huge pile of ready made ones! -  it’s wrapped in a napkin tastefully secured by a piece of string and obviously trying very hard to look rustic and 14^th Century!  Rather amusingly I discover that, as well as serving the baguettes prepared at the hotel and sent down to feed the peasants, the Inn also offers evening food on a Friday night – but only for hotel residents - who perhaps want to live life a little close to the edge and visit a common pub for the evening!  It’s enough for me to decide that I really would rather go for the two weeks in the Maldives!

Cider – 3

Tuna – (0) but crab baguette 4

Atmosphere – 1

The Aquarium Bar, South Sands

Technically not a pub, but the bar of a hotel, the Aquarium Bar is named after the rather large fish tank which is built into the wall next to the bar. It is home to the biggest lobster I have ever seen, a couple of flat fish hiding in the sand and some snails.  Not exactly exotic, but in the event of an emergency it’s nice to see that there would be a bit of food available. The bar looks out over South Sands beach, which is situated just outside of Salcombe. I’m told property prices here are second only to those at Sandbanks, Poole and looking at the view I can well believe it!

So after a brisk walk up and down the surrounding hills to get here what better way to relax than with a cider. There’s nothing on draught, but a quick enquiry leads to the assertion that I can have a bottle of Bulmers … my face gave my feelings on that away … well, we also have some bottles of a local cloudy dry cider if you prefer?  Oooh yes please. 

It turns out to be Heron Valley. I take a sip – it’s delicious!  Cold and refreshing. Would I like another?  I don’t mind if I do.  This time I ask if I can have the bottle as well, which tells me that a full ten varieties of apples are used in the cider process – bearing further wonderful original names as well as the usual Dabinett and Kingston Black - Fair Maid of Devon, Hangy Down Clusters, Foxwhelp, Browns, Sheeps Nose, Ten Commandments, Pig Snout and my favourite – Slap me Girdle!

Much like fellow Devon producer Luscombes, Heron Valley also do a roaring trade in organic apple juice and ginger beer.  But I can fully recommend their cider – as an added bonus it is totally organic, without any of those sulphites added.

The bar is quiet today, it is a Friday after all and the holiday season is yet to begin in earnest, but I can imagine that it gets packed out in the summer months.   I consult the menu … no Tuna baguette here.  We’re in Crab country again – and Salcombe Crab at that!  A Salcombe Crab sandwich on brown sounds lovely.  And it is! Served with a small side salad of rocket and balsamic and a handful of crisps it tastes delicious. Although half is secreted in my handbag for afternoon tea …

Cider - 3 (Not much choice, but then you don’t need much choice when the cider tastes as good as this!)

Tuna - (0 – not on the menu) but Crab – 4 (The only way it could have been better is if it was Tuna …)

Atmosphere – 2 (Much too posh to be a proper pub, but the wonderful view made up for that!!)

A glass of Cider at Knightshaye Court ...

Now, I'm not sure that this fits the criteria at all. But I'm including it to show that other types of cider are available other than Thatcher's Gold ...

It's Sunday, a visit to a National Trust property is on the cards.  But which one?  The decision is easy.  The only local one open this early in the year is Knightshaye Court in Devon.  We pile into the car and set off.

There was a time I would have laughed myself silly at the thought of ever being a paid-up member of the National Trust. But old age dulls the mind, and a love of mansions, ancient artefacts and (in the case of the twenty-ager) cream teas means I'm a regular visitor. And so after a stroll around the house we decide to try the cafe ... where I am delighted to discover that the National Trust have kept their word - "Many of the products we use are sourced locally and are regional specialities" - and on sale here they have bottles of Luscombe Devon cider.  Luscombe have been making cider for about 20 years, but now seem to be better known primarily as a soft-drink manufacturer - particularly organic apple juice. They've not lost their touch when it comes to cider though! It's dry, it's light and it's refreshing ... and full marks for the National Trust for managing something most pubs can't - serving a decent cider.

The George Hotel, Frome

The twenty-ager is home from Uni and she needs to be entertained ... I visited Frome for the first time in January following a recommendation from a friend and I have to say I wasn't disappointed - even though most of the rather wonderfully eclectic shops were shut for the month!  Frome seemed to be just the sort of place to take a discerning twenty-ager ...

The Farmers' Market had a lovely selection of  flavoured cheddar cheeses, some lovely smoked salmon  and a nice pot of Guernsey cream to tempt me.  And the cake shop offered an array of cakes suitable for afternoon tea. My mind was made up ... this evening I would prepare a selection of sandwiches (salmon and cream cheese, tuna and red onion, cucumber and egg mayonnaise) all with the crusts cut off, followed by cakes and cream!

So when it came to having a spot of lunch and knowing that the twenty-ager would want something reasonably "normal" (as opposed to some of the more fancier foods available in the more upmarket catering establishments in the town) the decision was taken to go into The George for a pub lunch.

The George is a Wadworths pub, so it offers an array of beer products ... but when it comes to cider ... Thatcher's Gold it is - despite peering over the bar I couldn't even see any bottled ciders to offer an alternative!

The food menu seemed to comprise of three separate menus, one detailing the "main menu", one for specials, and one for lunch ...however, it took a trip to three different tables to ensure we got one of each!  The lunch menu offered a tuna and red onion baguette, which I have to admit was very tempting,  but mindful of my afternoon tea plan I thought I'd give it a miss and have "Catch of the Day" instead. The order was taken at the table by a young lady who also took the next drinks order, and claimed to have changed the beer barrel - leading to us wondering if she was also doing the cooking or if there were other members of staff. On arrival "Catch of the Day" proved to be haddock, the food was hot, plentiful and filled a gap.

The George also offers accommodation  - it is a Hotel after all - but it knows its place, the menu isn't pretentious, the place is clean and the service is good - when you want a pint and a bite to eat as a break from shopping it does the job.  I imagine there are other pubs in Frome that offer the more genuine "real pub atmosphere", but I wasn't looking for that today, although to be fair we were seated in what was more of a dining area than the bar.

Cider - 2
Tuna - (0) but 3 for my meal
Atmosphere - 2 (more of an eatery than a pub)

Lamb and Flag, Cribbs, Bristol.

It’s Tuesday. I’ve been shopping at The Mall. I’ve a couple of hours to waste before going to the 02 Academy. 

Pop in here and have a bite to eat and a drink maybe?

It looks like a pub … but it’s a Harvester.  Harvesters like to pass themselves off as pubs. But they’re not.  Not by any stretch of the imagination

For example … the only cider they offer is draught Strongbow or Blackthorn or perhaps a tempting bottle of Magners. Original or Pear.  Bleugh. Stop it now.

A gaggle of shop workers come and join me at the bar, this is obviously a regular stop off on the way home.  Poor dears.

But perhaps, despite the bar, it’s a pub-food serving restaurant?  Maybe.  But what’s all this about “as much salad as you can eat”?  What sort of respectable pub-goer wants to eat salad?

And there’s no jacket potatoes or sandwiches on the menu … it’s all steak, grills and combos.  It’s monstrous and I want to leave right now.

At the table behind me sit a couple of young men.  One of them asks the waiter if he can “Get a spit roast please” … and then he and his partner go back to discussing the benefits of cruising. It’s a few moments before I realise that they mean the high seas variety! But it’s sad that this was the highlight of my visit – and purely down to my childish sense of humour …

Cider 0

Food 0

Atmosphere 0

Pyne’s Bar, The Bedford Hotel, Sidmouth

This year I won’t be staying at my usual hotel for Sidmouth for Folk Fest. Instead I’m going to save some money and have booked somewhere cheaper. However, being wary that the place might turn out to be not of my normal standard the decision was taken to go on a recce this weekend to check it out …

And so it is that I find myself getting blown along the Promenade at Sidmouth. Seriously, it’s incredibly windy, the waves are angry and I’m starting to get cold … Having reached the end of the Prom I’m really looking forward to the walk back, when the wind won’t be in my face!  After being forced up Jacob’s Ladder (a very high and open set of steps that lead me to whinge all the way up that I might get blown away) I manage to get out of the wind to admire the Connaught Gardens and then it’s back to the cold of the Prom again.  And now it’s also starting to rain … time to seek shelter.

Normally when I come to Sidmouth my pub of choice is The Ship in Old Fore Street – the food and choice of cider are excellent. But today I’m persuaded that a window seat in The Bedford Hotel with a view of the sea would be a perfect way to enjoy the town without getting cold and wet.

I’ve been to The Bedford before a few times, it’s a reasonable enough venue during Folk Fest – I’ve never had occasion to eat here though, eating is more of an afterthought when you are concentrating on the music and taking photographs of the sock and sandal combinations …

And so to the bar … I must admit that I usually frequent The Bedford later on in the evening when I visit Sidmouth, and by then I’ve already sampled a variety of ciders in the other establishments in town.  So it comes as a shock to discover that the only cider on offer is … Thatcher’s Gold.  I’m seriously starting to dislike the sight of that name on a pump now.  Gold seems to be taking over from Strongbow and Blackthorn as the must-have cider for Landlords. And whilst anything has to be better than the aforementioned fizzy rubbish it does seem to be at the expense of some of Thatcher’s other offerings – Katy for example. Why do so many pubs seem to think having a cider on draught and some bottles of Magners and Bulmers is enough to keep the cider drinkers happy? 

And breathe and relax, I take a seat by the window from where I can survey the weather buffeting the more hardier souls and consult the menu.  It’s a very posh menu – smoked haddock served on a bed of spinach, golden fried fish and chips with peas and tartare sauce or soup served with a cheese sandwich for the princely sum of £8.00.  There’s a selection of sandwiches too – but of course, we are now in Lyme Bay … so no Tuna on the menu.  Instead it’s crab.   It arrives promptly, with a nice dressed salad garnish and a handful of crisps. All jolly tasty, but not tuna … I do like my tuna.   Ah well ... roll on July when  I can get back to The Ship and decent cider!

Cider – 2 (I’m getting totally fed up of Gold) 

Tuna 0 – but (3) for my crab sandwich 

Atmosphere 2 – the pensioners seem to love it, but for me it’s not the same without the sound of flute, ukulele and bodhran.

My local ...

A chalkboard in the entrance to my local proudly boasts that they have nine ciders on sale. It's a Somerset pub in the heart of cider-producing territory so you would hope they have a decent offering. Let's take a closer look ...

On draught we have

1. Strongbow

2. Blackthorn

Both of which are mass-produced carbonated rubbish.

In bottles:-

3. Bulmers 

4. Magners (Irish cider ... Hmmph)

Another couple of mass-produced, over-carbonated pop masquerading as cider.

5. WKD Core

6. Brothers Strawberry

I don't know how they can call either of these cider.

7. Aspalls Draught

8. Aspalls Dry

Not Somerset produced, and not a traditional cloudy scrumpy, but in the absence of anything better I like a bottle of Aspalls, particularly the 7% dry. It's got quite a distinct apple taste - not too sharp and not too dry. And the best bit is ... I'm one of the few people trusted with the special Aspalls glass!    

9. Aspalls Blush

Although they don't actually have amy of this in at the moment, nor space on the shelves. Which doesn't bother me. The time I tried some it reminded me of being a teenager and drinking 'cider'n'black' on a nearby town's practically derelict pier and almost falling through the planking on the way home. Before being jolly ill.

Tonight the rugby is on, the place is packed, so far Enfland are winning. Everyone seems happy ... It's very noisy - the sort of cacophony you get when men get over-excited, but it's nice to see the place busy. 

Later I shall probably venture forth for a kebab. The chef here tries his best, there are ham or cheese rolls behind the bar and the specials board features lamb shank or grilled bacon and everything comes with chips.  But judging from the smell that emanates from the kitchen they don't seem to change the chip fat very often and that has always put me off grabbing a bite to eat here.  
  
Cider - 3.5 (that score is purely for the Aspalls but then this place is not a free house, so I suppose they are doing their best!)  Tuna - 0 (but the kebab is always good) Atmosphere - 5. It's my local after all.